Apparently, the number one rule of surfing is, “Don’t fight the wave”.
Beautiful, isn’t it?
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Apparently, the number one rule of surfing is, “Don’t fight the wave”.
Beautiful, isn’t it?
A millennial's musings 
Makes total sense 🙂
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It IS. And I live to tell the tale. I resisted the wave, so instead of rolling with it like countless Hawaiian children, I went stiff and ended up losing a front tooth. That was over 25 years ago, but the lesson was (at long last) grasped.
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I laughed so much at this when I first read it…
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